While much of Bosnia is defined by lush green hills, the southern region of Herzegovina beats to a different rhythm. This is a land of sun-scorched stone, turquoise rivers, and a distinct Mediterranean spirit. The air feels warmer, the pomegranates grow heavy on the trees, and history feels etched into every rock. To visit Bosnia and Herzegovina without experiencing Herzegovina is to read only half of a magnificent book.
This guide will take you through the essential stops that make this region an unforgettable part of any Bosnian journey.
Mostar: The Heart of Herzegovina
Mostar is the region’s unofficial capital and its undeniable soul. While the Stari Most (Old Bridge) is the main draw, the city offers so much more.
- The Stari Most: Rebuilt painstakingly after its destruction, the elegant stone arch is a powerful symbol of reconciliation. The best time to see it is at sunrise before the crowds arrive. For a fee, you can watch the famous divers of the Mostar Diving Club make the daring plunge into the icy Neretva below.
- Explore the Old Town: Wander away from the main thoroughfare. You will find the Kriva Ćuprija (Crooked Bridge), a smaller, charming prototype of the main bridge. Discover hidden courtyards, browse the artisan shops, and feel the smooth, time-worn kaldrma stones under your feet. A word of advice: wear shoes with good grip, as the stones can be very slippery.
- Views from a Minaret: For a small fee, you can climb the narrow, winding staircase of the Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque’s minaret. The reward is the single best aerial view of the Stari Most and the entire old city. It is an unmissable photo opportunity.
Blagaj: Where Water and Spirit Meet
Just a 15-minute drive from Mostar lies one of the country’s most surreal and beautiful sights. The Blagaj Tekija, a 16th-century Dervish monastery, is built into the base of a towering cliff. Beside it, the Buna River emerges, fully formed, from a dark cave. The water is impossibly clear and emerald-green. You can take a short boat ride into the cave itself, and the riverside restaurants offer fresh trout with the sound of rushing water as your soundtrack.
Počitelj: A Living Open-Air Museum
Clinging to a hillside overlooking the Neretva is the fortified town of Počitelj. This UNESCO World Heritage site is a maze of stone stairways, quiet courtyards, and pomegranate trees. It feels like a town lost in time. The main attractions are the Sahat-kula (clock tower) and the Šišman Ibrahim Pasha Mosque. The highlight is climbing to the top of the Kula (fortress tower) for breathtaking views of the river valley. In the summer, local families sell delicious, fresh-squeezed pomegranate and fig juice.
Kravice Waterfalls: A Natural Amphitheater
This is Herzegovina’s answer to a day at the beach. The Trebižat River cascades over a wide, semi-circular cliff, creating a spectacular natural amphitheater of waterfalls that plunge into a pristine lake. In the peak of summer, it is a bustling swimming spot. You can swim right up to the base of the falls, relax at a waterside cafe, or simply marvel at the spectacle. To avoid the biggest crowds, try to visit on a weekday. Remember to bring swimwear and water shoes.
Trebinje: The City of Sun and Wine
Further south, near the Montenegrin and Croatian borders, lies Trebinje, one of BiH’s most charming cities. It is often overlooked but is a true gem. Walk across the Arslanagića Bridge, a masterpiece of Ottoman engineering, explore the walled Old Town, and enjoy the cafe culture under the shade of ancient plane trees. For the best view, drive up to the Hercegovačka Gračanica monastery on the hill above the city. Trebinje is also the heart of Bosnia’s small but excellent wine region, so a visit to a local winery is a must.
Planning Your Herzegovina Trip
- Getting Around: The sites of Herzegovina are spread out. The only practical way to connect them all efficiently is with your own vehicle. It gives you the flexibility to spend as much time as you want at each location.
- Best Time to Visit: Spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October) are perfect, with pleasant weather and fewer crowds. Summer (June-August) is beautiful but can be very hot, so plan your sightseeing for the mornings and late afternoons.
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